Friday 10 August 2012

Hannover 96 2-0 St. Patrick’s Athletic, Thursday 9th August 2012

Hannover 96 2-0 St. Patrick’s Athletic, Europa League 3rd Qualifying Round, 2nd leg (att. 24,500)

Welcome to ...

After the grime of Chemnitz, it was good to get back to the more usual beauty and greenery of a German city, this time Hannover.  I got lucky with my accommodation, right in the city centre but inbetween the 2 places I needed most; the railway station and the football stadium.  I’d also developed a migraine (perhaps another reason for my low morale yesterday) so the first thing I did was go to bed.  A mid afternoon nap turned out to be just the medicine!

1st view of the stadium.

Since it was now 5ish, I thought I’d better have a wander to the ground.  I’d no idea what time kick-off was (though at least I knew there was a match).  It was a beautiful walk too, taking me through the ‘Maschpark’ which contains possibly Hannover’s most stunning building, the Neues Rathaus.  And I was there, the AWD Arena (formerly the Niedersachsenstadion, which sounds much grander).  Turned out I was early too, as I saw other fans being turned away from the closed fanshop. I figured it must be a late kick off as I circumnavigated the stadium and saw two teams of security given their pep-talks. 

The Neues Rathaus

By the time I’d done the once-around, the main ticket booths had opened.  ‘What ticket would you like?’ ‘The cheapest.’  25 euros to sit high up in the corner.  The stadium holds 49,000, including 8,000 standing places (still a far cry from its record crowd of 86,000).  The lower tier ‘terrace’ (where everyone had a flip-up seat, thereby fulfilling the all-seater directive) was sold out.  Given the (relative) steepness of price, I wonder how much it was downstairs?  St. Patrick’s Athletic in August can’t bet that much of a draw. 

How to turn all-seater.

It’s an impressive ground, one for which the term ‘stadium’ was invented. It sits atop a hill, looking every inch the modern day castle. Inside, perfect views all-round, the stands arching around the pitch.  Yet there’s something too sanitised about it all.  Too perfect.  Though for any Premiership fan below the age of 30, it’s all they’ve probably ever known.  It reminded me of the Etihad, yet with a mid-tier walkway for the fans, a la the Riverside, Middlesbrough.

The home end is a lot busier than the rest of the stadium.

I scurried off, ticket in hand and when I checked my ticket…still no kick-off time.  So I picked up the courage to speak to someone.  ‘Half past 9’.  ‘No, half past 8’ his colleague corrected. (In some parts of Europe they say ‘half to’ rather than ‘half past’.)  So, time for a quick wander round town then back again.  I had no penchant for lying around the nearby park, or the Maschsee, a massive artificial lake built by the unemployed under Hitler.  I still had a bit of a headache.

Ticket booths before my lap of honour.

On looking at the match ticket, I also discovered who the opposition were, St. Patrick’s Athletic of Ireland. Should be a cakewalk. I bought a programme and so it looked: the 1st leg had been won 3-0 by the Germans, away.  In this one-sided game, Hannover cruised to a 2-0 win, mainly characterised by their players jumping out of the way of anything approaching a tackle, so as not to get injured for more important games to come. 

The teams come out.

Both goals were headers from set pieces but you got the impression if they’d needed to score 5 or 6 they would have done.  The Nordkurve fans intermittently chanted, but you could tell it was low key, despite the relative fullness of the end.  The attendance was given as 24,500, which I found suspicious given it was EXACTLY half the overall capacity. St. Pat’s brought around 300and they loked like they were having a whale of a time, constant singing and occasional ‘Poznans’, also going topless to wave their shirts in the air (like they don’t care).  After all, they were in Europe!

St. Pat's huddled together in the far corner.

One drawback was the refreshments.  Being a slick operation, of course this was one of those ‘pay by stadium card’ things.  I found this out as I queued for my ‘fischbrotchen’ (fish bread: a side of pickled herring, with onions, in a baguette).  Thankfully, upon hearing my plight, a 96 fan offered to buy it for me, and wouldn’t accept payment.  I salute you, sir!  In chat, he was very much looking forward to the coming Saturday: a friendly v Manchester United.  And I’d been wondering why tonite’s programme had so many pages devoted to last season’s Premiership runners-up!

Finally, what team still comes out to Queen’s ‘Rock You’?  Hannover 96 of course!  But on the plus side, there were plenty of bars around the Maschsee later, for an after-match drink.

The Damage:
€25 ent
€1.50 prog
= €26.50

Entrance/exit.

Steward teamtalk (1)

Mosaic outside the stadium.

Mounted police pre-match.

Steward teamtalk (2).

This place wasn't selling quite what I'd hoped...!

Pre-match parking.

The fans queue to enter.

The Hannover home end.

A less than packed Main Stand.

The view towards the far end (Sudtribune).

Busier on this side.  Cheaper?

Match action.

Welcome to ...(2)

Wednesday 8 August 2012

Chemnitzer 3-1 Darmstadt 98, Wednesday 8th August 2012


Chemnitzer 3-1 Darmstadt 98, 3.liga (att. 5,200)


The Big Match.

 Maybe I was having a bad day. Maybe ny heart wasn’t in it from the start. After all, I’d travelled from Erfurt to Dresden, dropped my bag off, then headed to Chemnitz.  A fair bit of travelling, on top of what I’d already done in the past week and a half.  But I don’t think it was that.  I just found Chemnitz (the place) a bit of a chore, from the dismal walk up the hill to the ground (about 20 minutes from the station), past many a derelict building, to the walk to a city centre (20 minutes the other side of the station) of no renown.  

The outside of the stadium.

Having said all that, there is one MUST SEE, the Karl Marx statue outside a non-descript block of flats in between the station and city centre.  Under the communists, this was Karl Marx Stadt, but since reunification, it’s been renamed ‘Chemnitz’ and Karl’s name has been besmirched.  The workers will rise again!

Working men of the world unite!

The walk to the ground has a resigned feeling.  Lots of grand, yet dilapidated buildings.  (This theme is re-visited at the game, as behind one goal is a similarly described construction.) Chemnitz is apparently on the rise.  If so, it has quite a way to go.  And how awful must it have been in the first place?

Like Craven Cottage.  But not.

Next to the stadium is an indoor carting track which doubles as some kind of drinking hole.  About time, cos there’s nothing else.  Inside the ground though, there’s beer and sausages aplenty.  And the stadium is a proper throwback to how things used to be; one small covered stand and 3½ sides of open terrace, endless high fencing (both at pitchside and the terrace, splitting it into pens, th elater of which might be a good idea were it not for the fact that everyone comes through the same pen to begin with.  The attendance probably isn’t great but it looks busier than it is due to the habit of pinning banners to the perimeter fence, resulting in no-one standing on the first 10 steps or so of the terrace as you’d be unable to see.  Chemnitzer have plans for a rebuild.  Let’s see if it comes happens.
The new stadium plans.

The ‘fankurve’ (behind the goal) does its best but most of the noise simply wafts into the air, like the smoke from a nearby chimney.  In the second half, there is choreographed singing between the fankurve and the tribune side, but our terrace is for the aficionados.  Or those who can’t be bothered to sing inbetween smoking/eating/drinking.

The ultras welcome their heroes.

Chemnitzer win 3-1. The opener is a smart finish from a left wing cutback.  It’s 2-0 before half time with a goal I’ll presumably never see.  I was in the queue for sustenance.  3-0 and it’s all over though I am alone in the home end for applauding Darmstadt’s consolation.  I’m tired and I just wanna see more goals.

The Damage:
€9.50 ent
€2.50 sausage
€2.50 beer
= €14.50

I’d have had a programme as well, were it not for the queue at their ‘fanshop’, a hut with a small window.  Take a tip from Rot Weiss Erfurt, yesterday – have a pretty lady (or man!) with a pile of programmes for sale as you enter.

There's SOME cover...over the ticket booths.

Pre-match drinks.

Down the long side terrace.

The away end..few in number.

I bet this used to look nice.

The teams come out.
 
Sunset over stadion an der gellertstrasse.

If I didn't know better, I'd swear something was on fire.

Chemnitzer employ the latest scoreboard technology.

Overlooking the main stand.

The Main Stand empties at full time.

Behind the goal.

It's a simple construction, but I like it.

Bye bye!




Rot Weiss Erfurt 1-1 Stuttgart II, Tuesday 7th August 2012


Rot Weiss Erfurt 1-1 Stuttgart II, 3.liga (att. 3,802)

Welcome to ....

A place as nice as Erfurt doesn’t deserve a football team.  And it very nearly might not after the start they’ve had this season: 3 games, 3 defeats, scored 1, conceded 10. But aren’t football teams meant to be from grim, industrial places, where people have nothing to live for but their football team?  But this is historic, scenic, picturesque Erfurt.  Castles (why is called a ‘citadel’?), medieval buildings, parks, a river so shallow you’d barely get your ankles wet when crossing…and a football team to boot!  I think I’d like to live here.  Perhaps I could afford a ground floor flat in a concrete tenement (there’s a few of them too).

Erfurt, yesterday.

It’s a nice walk to the Steigerwaldstadion too.  Avoiding the tram (which takes you direct to the stadium), exit the back of the railway station (opposite direction of the Aldstadt), head uphill through a delicious park, then stroll through the cobbled streets and huge dwellings of ‘Am Stadtpark’ and at some point you’ll see the floodlights.  The home terrace is at the far end.  Or follow the (few) fans.
Even the stadium is full of charm, despite possessing an athletics’ track.  Every athletics stadium should have a colourful flowerbed behind the goal, but I’ve only seen the Steigerwaldstadion thus far.  There’s also cover on one side only, and even this stand had massive gaps at the back to allow the wind and rain to blow in.  But it still looks beautiful, or at least it does in early August, where there’s no mistaking what a lovely place this is to come and watch footie.  It is an evening kick off and the sun is shining, the temperature is..temperate and there are beer and sausage stands aplenty.  No queues either, given the few fans.  And did I really hear the teams come out to some heavy metal which segued into Boney M?  (The latter were Germany’s finest disco export.)  I see there’s a ‘Drexler’ in the team too.  Might he be related to the founder of the Nazi party?  The ‘Weimar’ of ‘Weimar Republic’ is just down the road too; shame I didn’t have time to visit.

'Marathontor'

With three successive defeats, you’d expect to se a nervous home team, but not a bit of it.  From the off, RW attacked and in the 2nd minute got a penalty when their player cut inside and was chopped down.  What is it about blatant penalties that require 7 (seven) members of the opposition to surround the ref, arguing?  Works for Man U, I s’pose.  The pen is despatched, and the Erfurt hordes go wild – or at least the 200 ultras, who, to be fair, never stopped singing throughout.  They were led by the ubiquitous man with a mic on the fence, supported by a drummer.  Mind, when they chanted ‘Erfurt, Erfurt’ is sounded like a plea for ‘effort, effort’, chant I’d like to incorporate upon my return home.  I am though a little tired of hearing ‘you’ll never walk alone’ at German matches and today was no exception.

Spot the half and half Erfurt/West Ham scarves!

Today was also my 1st experience of the Bundesliga reserve team: Stuttgarter II are the under 23/reserve team of Stuttgart and, unlike in England, they’re allowed to take part in the national league.  I’d hate this to happen in England.  Who supports the 2nd team today?  Friends and family of players?  Supporters of the first team who live in or near Erfurt?  Whatever their reasons, there are 19 of them here today (though they were a long way away at the other end of the stadium).  Whatever their number, I have seen that many police vehicles today on my walk to the ground, and 5 times as many coppers.  Who pays for all this? 

There's no escape, even when walking through the park.

Back to Stuttgart II.  Who plays for them?  How does it work?  For instance, is it a team with some experienced (lower division) stalwarts who are supported by young, up and coming potential future 1st teamers?  And are players interchangeable between the 1st and 2nd team as they are in England?  Even if the reserves are playing in the national league?  Also, with the reserves not allowed to join their compadres’ division, what’s the point?  At least it’ theoretically possible, say, for Rochdale to get to the Premiership and play Man U.  Stuttgart II will never be allowed to reach Stuttgart I’s level, so what’s the point?  Though they can play Stuttgarter Kickers, who are a different team altogether (and share a ground with Stuttgart II).  Keeping up?

Erfurt's main stand.

Anyway, Erfurt piled forward throughout the 1st half, creating chance after chance, but being unable to add to their lead.  Now I know why they’re struggling.  The second half is not nearly as one-sided but RW are still comfortably on top, despite the reserves hitting the bar with an out of the blue long ranger.  Then, in the 77th minute a careless foul just inside the Erfurt half leads to a lofted punt into the box, a looping header, and it’s one-all.  What an awful way to concede.  It could be a season of struggle for the home side.

The Damage:
€11 ent
€1 prog
€2 sausage
€2.50 beer
€4 badge
= €20.50


The giraffe-like floodlights.

Turnstiles outside the 'Marathontor'

Stadium plan.

The view from behind the goal.

Erfurt: all banners and flowerbeds.

Rot Weiss ultras.

...and again.

The Marathontor.

The Main Stand

The view towards the scoreboard.

The away end.

The giant scoreboard.

The teams come out (not that you can tell).

A floodlight leans in.

The main event.

The main stand roof.

Welcome to...(II)

The view from the top of the terrace.

Match action.

I can see the downside of playing here...


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