Geordie Al's Groundhopper Scrapbook

Friday, 5 August 2016

Brondby 3-1 Hertha Berlin, Thursday 4th August 2016

Brondby 3-1 Hertha BSC, att. 17,102 (Europa League 3rd Qualifying Round, 2nd leg: agg 3-2)

Welcome to ....

After much deliberation, I decided my Thurs nite Europa League action should be Brondby and the delights of Copenhagen. Sassuolo proved impossible (overnite trains from Munich being fully booked) and I narrowed it down to Anderlecht or Brondby. Then I noticed FC Copenhagen were playing in the Champions League, Weds. Decision made. (Note: I never made it to FC Copenhagen. The one train which would’ve got me there on time was fully booked. I should have done what a French couple did on my later, also fully booked, train – just get on anyway. The difference? Being charged €4.50 advance or €12 on the train; so I missed the match for the sake of €7.50).

Outside Vest-tribunen

As for Brondby, after a welcome lie-in, I decided to go to the stadium 1st and buy my match ticket. Shouldn’t be a sell-out, but you never know. This took way longer than I expected. Although ‘Brøndbyøster’ is only 15 mins on the S-Bahn from Copenhagen main station the walk to the stadium can’t be far off an hour. No wonder that later on, most of those who got off for the match brought their bikes with them! (In Denmark, there’s often a carriage set aside for bikes; when will we see that in London?)

From the outside, looking in.

The walk is pleasant enough – if you go the right way. Continue following the train track along Banestien for a few hundred metres before turning left on Voldgaden, through an avenue of trees (look out for the old Copenhagen fortifications), till the end. Then turn 200m right, then 200m left and the stadium is there. However, on my 1st trip (to buy the ticket), I’d seen where the stadium was on a map, walked too far along Banestien, over a motorway, then turned left into a massive industrial estate. Although it (eventually) proved possible to walk through it, I wouldn’t recommend it – I only managed to get out the other side through electronic gates cos a delivery driver was coming IN. Phew.

The stadium is bottom left; plenty of practice pitches.

Being at the stadium 6 hours before KO, the only fans around were Hertha. Otherwise, it was security guards still putting fences up (necessary, given events later) or putting tape around lamp posts to prevent people parking on nearby grass verges. Must they do this EVERY home game? What an effort.

Taping off the verges.

There were no ticket booths open at this time, but I picked up a ticket in the club shop for a reasonable 135 kr (reasonable, considering the price of everything else in Copenhagen). I chose the upper tier, in the corner. There didn’t seem to be a lot of choice - another reason why, later, I was surprised to hear the crowd given as only 17,000 odd.

The teams line up.

So, I went back to town, had my lunch/dinner, then a nap, and it was time to return. About all I’d seen of Copenhagen was the main shopping street, Brondby Stadion and some old fortifications / flood defences on Voldgaden. Making the return journey, I noticed most people made their way through the estates from the station, or else stayed on for the nest stop, Glostrup. You could catch a bus from Brøndbyøster station (13? 3?) which went close to the stadium, but where’s the fun in THAT?

Outside Loxam-tribunen

I arrived about half an hour before KO, but such was the noise from inside the stadium that I thought the match had started. It was only the lackadaisical demeanour of those outside which offered reassurance. Brondby Stadion is not much to look at from the outside, a bit of a tin box. But inside, it makes some effort to look a bit different. The corners have an overhang, while the lower tiers are cut out. Meantime, down one side, there is a unique middle tier with double-heighted windows which leaned backwards into the stand. The home end had seating in the upper tier and a terrace below (sadly empty for European games – why?). The away end was similar, ‘cept for the terrace, which only covered about ¼ of the lower tier, if that. The 4th side housed the exec boxes.

Vest-tribunen

The match kicked off and here was a novelty: the scoreboard offered odds on the match. Soon they’ll all be doing it. Hertha were slight favourites. A minute later the stadium erupted. Brondby had pegged back Hertha’s 1-0 lead from the 1st leg (see here: http://geordiealsgroundhopperscrapbook.blogspot.co.uk/search/label/Hertha%20Berlin%20v%20Brondby)

A long ball over the top was hit on the half volley with venom, the keeper parried it and in the ensuing scramble some little blond fella chested it in.

No mistaking the ultras.

For 10 minutes it was all Brondby, before settling down. Brondby were up for the attack, Hertha dangerous on the counter. The latter had blazed 2 or 3 crosses into the crowd from promising positions, yet it was no surprise how equalised: another cross from the right headed beyond the keeper. Brondby were silent. The dream appeared over, now needing 2 goals to beat their more illustrious rivals.

Looking toward Loxam-tribunen,

The little blond fella (Teemu Pukki, who once appeared destined for greater things at Schalke) thought otherwise. A neat triangle on the edge of the Hertha box led to a through ball being half intercepted by the centre half and while everyone watched, Pukki latched on to poke it home, left footed. BELIEF! From now till the end, the crowd was fully behind their soon-to-be-heroes.

Half time came and went, then early in the second half it was time for the Hertha fans to unleash a massive smoke bomb (similar to the 1st leg). Even as the away team, the tannoy announcement was immediate. What are they saying? That it threatens their future European involvement? No need to worry on that score…

Hertha smoke bomb.

With the smoke having nearly cleared, 2 Hertha defenders and the keeper attempted to pass it around without much success. Too much dithering, or ‘fannying about’ as we say up north. One Brondby challenge later, the ball runs loose to another yellow shirt. If he squares it, the little blond fella will have a tap-in; he does and he has. Pukki has only gone and scored a hattrick, and he’s not even the main centre forward; his constant tracking back is a thorn in Hertha’s side too. Whatthehell is he doing playing at this level?

The Hertha fans respond...

With over half an hour left, it was refreshing to see Brondby continue to go for it, while leaving generous gaps at the back. Salomon Kalou, playing more as a #10 these days, has the best 2 chances. Cutting inside on his right, he has the direction but not the power and the keeper tips over while later, clean through, the Brondby keeper makes the save of the match and is rightly given the roar of a goal.

Hertha’s efforts fizzle out and all that is left is for their ultras to light their flares. It’s a long way to come not to. And since you’ve smuggled them into the stadium…As the ref blows for full time and the home fans celebrate, the away fans chuck the platform for the cheerleader over the fence – one last act of defiance as they leave.

Over goes the cheerleader's platform.

I’m at the Hertha end and after an attempt to go to the toilet (there’s a flaw in the stadium design here; each section has its own staircase, so to get to the loo I have to climb down one set then ascent another…only to find they’re locked. WTF?)

So, I have to walk around 3 sides of the ground (cos of fencing outside separating the fans). I stroll around the stadium and am in the process of taking a couple of pics of Hertha fans on their buses, when, from nowhere, there’s a commotion. Stones and bottles are flying over my head at the buses. After a momentary seizure, my SA training kicks into action – I run behind some trees. Then the police, and their truncheons, and their dogs appear and drive the – what? – 200 or so youths off.
Panic over and I’m soon walking down Voldgaden again, this time marvelling over the number of slugs on the pavement. Luckily, they’re glistening in the lamp light. I can do without the squidge of slug underfoot.

...and the match carried on.

Brondby Stadion panorama

Outside of stadium

Brondby corner.

Behind Sydsiden (I)

Behind Sydsiden (II)

Vest-tribunen at full time.

Inside the entrance.

The night ends with da feds chasing da yoof.

Monday, 1 August 2016

Bohemians 1905 0-3 Hradec Kralove, Sunday 31st July 2016

Bohemians 1905 0-3 Hradec Kralove, Czech Liga, att. 4,832

Welcome to ....

Visiting ‘Dolicek’ (The Dimple), the home of Bohemians, reminds me of Viktoria Zizkov, another Prague side; one main stand and 3 roofless sides, albeit at Dolicek there’s nothing behind one goal except for portacabins and other buildings. It has an air of clutter about it, in a good way. The main stand is also a lot more modern than at Zizkov, giving it a slightly less romantic feel, but the greenery, both of the seats and shrubbery around, make up for it. Even the programme showed pics of the trees being trimmed as part of the preparations for the season. The things you don’t think about….

Half time,overlooking the river behind the main stand.

I’d walked from Zizkov, funnily enough, more or less a straight run, cutting through the Prague suburbs. It was a decent stroll – the hills help – and it took the best part of an hour, but this is Prague! Where better to be wandering through neighbourhoods?

I emerged at what was the home end, but with the inconsistent drizzle of the day, I had my eyes set on the posh seats, under that main stand roof. The first entrances I came to belonged to the away side (Hradec Kralove). The home entrances lay further around, on the opposite side. Match tickets were CZK 230 in the main stand, and 150 everywhere else.

Away turnstiles.

Disappointingly, my ticket was in the 3rd row, near the corner flag. However, someone was already in my seat. I’d expected a low turnout, but the stand was very busy. But I climbed to the back and found a pew on the last row, needing to duck under a girder to get there. Perfect – where I would have chosen to sit anyroads.

I was at the far end, 1st half.

Opposite were the away fans and their ‘stand’ as such, consisted of perhaps 3 lines of seats. But nobody sat and they bunched up to maximise their huddle. Maybe there were 200 of them. Either way, they kept up their noise throughout.

Overlooking proceedings, from behind the away fans, were 5 or 6 storey flats with probably the best view of all. Some tenants watched, while another’s was simply covered in laundry.

The away fans, inc. the 'Crime Boys' (!?)

The Bohemians’ ultras were behind the far goal, to my left. Although nominally seated, the central part was kept as terracing. This means that everyone tends to stand anyway, if you want a view. But people understand that. A cheerleader stood on a platform directly behind the goal, rousing the folks.

The home end.

The match was thus far the first one on my holiday where I’d seen BOTH sides try to attack, so it was quite exciting (though the finishing didn’t match). Bohemians in particular threatened, coulda had 2 or 3 (they had one rightly disallowed for offside) but had none. Half time, 0-0.

I went for a wander. I’d been in the club shop with the aim of getting a t-shirt with a kangaroo on it (Bohemians once went on a tour of Australia and have since appropriated the ‘roo for their badge – shame the mascot’s outfit looked a bit ‘budget’, but I digress). Spoilt for choice, I’d have bought a couple, but I had a budget of my own. I’m now the proud owner of a green ‘t’ sporting a kangaroo and ‘Bohemians Praha’ on it.

Can I be a kangaroo boy?

I’d also had a beer pre-match, noticeable mainly for the deposit on the (plastic) glass costing more than the beer itself. I kept mine – I’ve quite the collection of plastic glasses. However, the queues at half time and during the second half were too long for me to bother.

I adventured to the other end of the stand and found I could wander freely behind the goal. While the odd fan p***ed up against a fence, I walked up the terrace to check out the view. It seemed all fence – so I went back to the steep main stand, but not before I got a couple of hits of marijuana. How very bohemian!

The view from behind the goal.

While dotting about, I missed the opening goal. 0-1 and the Hradec fans let off a small smoke bomb. Not long after it was 0-2, a right wing cross being expertly turned home by a covering defender. That was it, game over, yet Hradec still had time for one more break as the left winger cut inside, cut inside a bit more, and drove it into the far corner.

Hradec fans celebrate.

Bohemians fans seemed reigned rather than angry. I suspect they’ve seen it all before. They DID seem pleased with the crowd figure though, 4,832. A respectable number, given big boys Sparta and Slavia often only pull 8-9,000. And unlike those 2, a visit to Bohemians has character and is highly recommended!

Behind the other goal.

The Damage:
CHK 230 ent
CHK 20 programme
CHK 30 beer
CHK 50 glass deposit
CHK 300 t-shirt
= CHK 630

The Tunes:
Silver or Lead (Ursula Rucker)
Ma’at Mama (Ursula Rucker)
Drone Logic (Daniel Avery)