Chemie Leipzig 2-0 Markranstadt, Sunday 7th August 2016

Chemie Leipzig 2-0 Markranstadt, att. c3,000 (Oberliga Nordost-Sud)

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Who ARE the ‘Dropkick Murphys’? I presume they’re a band, but I see their t-shirts everywhere on the continent and at today’s game there’s another one. Seriously, in several years of touring Europe , they must be the 3rd most popular band t-shirt after Guns ‘n’ Roses and the Rolling Stones. Even The Beatles can’t compete. One day I’ll look them up. Maybe even come across them (but if I’m not listening to the right radion stations, or watching the right telly by now, I’m unlikely to in the future). I’m imagining a poorer version of The Pogues, but possibly even American, tapping into their alleged Irish roots. I may be completely wrong…

Pre-match queues.

Leipzig is a glorious place. Even Napoleon visited (though he didn’t fare so well, losing the Battle of the Nations in 1813). It also has 3 of my favourite footie visiting experiences; the amazing architecture and design of the Red Bull Arena (built INSIDE the old Zentralstadion), or the ramshackle homeliness of Lokomotive…and now Chemie. Last time I visited, I couldn’t even see Chemie – they’d gone out of business. But, out of the ashes, and despite the success of Red Bull, a fire still burns in the western suburbs for a club whose current incarnation claims lineage back to 1964 and Chemie’s 2nd (and last) league title in the old GDR.

Celebrating Chemie's 1964 title.

The stadium is a real charmer. The main stand is completely made of wood (‘rauch verboten’ – no kidding!!) and has nice big support pillars to ensure you can’t see all of the mistakes you get at the 5th tier of German football. The stand perhaps covers half of the touchline, with a lower tier of seats slapped on an old terrace running the full length of the pitch.

The timber-everywhere Main Stand.

Opposite, there appears to be a house with some kind of propped extension attached, which perhaps doubles as Chemie’s executive area. Again, there’s a tier of seats slapped on terrace, while towards the home end is pure terrace…the family block. T the right of the main stand is a small terrace, most of which is fenced off, with weeds sprouting everywhere. The away section, in an adjacent pen, is similarly overgrown, but at least open. I count 4 away fans today. (There are a few more spectators behind the terrace, watching the game for free, albeit through 2 fences). I get the overwhelming impression that if you can be bothered to get to the Alfred Kunze (great name – up there with the Wankdorf!) you’re not going to spare Chemie the €7 it costs to get in.

The disused terrace (away fans at far end).

Finally, there’s the 4th side, the home end, a massive terrace (certainly in relation to the rest of the ground) split in two. A lower tier (where the ultras hang) has a 10 foot wall at its rear and a 2nd tier behind it. The terrace is the highest part of the stadium and, if capacity is 10,000, must account for at least half of this. I spend the first half here, upper tier, but in truth this is no place for a pasty white guy. It is red hot and I can barely STAND in this heat, so god knows how the players are managing. 2nd half, I snuck into the main stand, the only bit of shade there was. I was melting.

The home terrace (ultras downstairs).

Finding the stadium, I was a tad relieved to see some Chemie fans getting on the train at the hauptbahnhof. I knew to get off at Leipzig Leutsch but thereafter…basically, come out of the station, turn right, cross 2 sets of railway tracks, turn right again and it’s the 2nd left. Yes, into some suburban estate – but at the end of that street lies the stadium. You just can’t see it till you’re on top of it.

The Alfred-Kunze-Sportpark

Chemie, despite their semi-illustrious history and their various reincarnations (they were Sachsen Leipzig for a time too) now find themselves in the 5th tier playing sides from the villages, or, like Markranstadt, outer suburbs of larger places (Leipzig). They must dream of re-engaging with Lokomotive (a division higher) nevermind challenging Red Bull (sorry, ‘Rasenboll’). And with 3,000+ willng to cheer them on today, it’s not difficult to see a brighter future for Chemie.

The exec / family side.

The match? Decided a minute either side of half time. In first half injury time, an away player was sent off (I think for arguing; the perpetrator of the original foul was yellow-carded). Then, before many re-took their spots for the second half, a corner was flicked on to the back post and an empty net. The victory was sealed similarly, a late back post header, but my abiding memory of play was the Chemie forward who rounded the keeper then hit the side netting with the goal gaping. It’s early August and I’ve already sen the miss of the season.

One fan takes it easy.

Full-time and the kind of stadium I can’t resist wandering around, hanging back, taking snaps (FAR too many) and watching the ultras pack up all of their stuff, including using the actual pitch to fold a particularly large banner. Those boys put some effort in. It’s not just the jumping around and chanting in the 80 (90?)° heat, it’s the equipment, it’s getting it there (they loaded their cars up; no storing it at the stadium like everyone else). In short, it’s the total organisation and commitment. And in the Oberliga Nordost (Sud)…phenomenal.

Full-time.  Time to pack up!

One last note: It wouldn’t be me if I didn’t make a mistake a game, but I should have known there was a rabbit off when I found a pre-match queue for tickets much shorter than the others…I bought a ticket for an entirely different game – the following week’s friendly v Bundesliga Eintracht Frankfurt. Intriguingly, it was more expensive than a match ticket for a competitive game (€9). At least I realised my mistake before going through the turnstiles – though I got my money back from a different lady. I was too embarrassed to seek out the original one!


The Damage:
€7 ent
€2.50 beer (400ml) x 2
€2.50 bratwurst
€3 steak
€4 badge
= €21.50

Pre-match panorama

From the top of the terrace panorama.

Main Stand panorama.

Back of the Main Stand.

Back of the lower tier.

Looking towards the home end.

The Main Stand (apologies, it was very sunny).

The view from the terrace.

...and at the very back.

Flags between the upper and lower tier of terracing.

Chemie's team of '64.

'Rauchen Verboten!'

Wooden pillars, old and...older.

The roof.

Looking towards the cottage.

Match action.

Danger in the Main Stand.

Main Stand after the match.

Wooden joists.

Full-time!

One incarnation of Chemie...

..and the latest.

Essence of Easter Island?