Geordie Al's Groundhopper Scrapbook: Lyon (LOU) 36-10 ASM Clermont Auvergne, Saturday 17th February 2018

Sunday 18 February 2018

Lyon (LOU) 36-10 ASM Clermont Auvergne, Saturday 17th February 2018

Lyon (LOU) 36-10 Clermont-Ferrand (att. 17,375)

Welcome to .....LOU (Lyon Olympique Universitaire)

I hate rugby, but I couldn’t pass this opportunity: go and see a game at Olympique Lyonnais’ old Stade de Gerland. Olympique’s new out of town build is somewhat characterless and not a patch on this beauty, looking classy, surrounded by its faded whitewashed walls. It reminded me of Bordeaux’s old stadium. It’s also been the scene of some historic occasions, such as Euro ’84, the World Cup in ’98, various concerts by the likes of the Rolling Stones…and the on-pitch death of Marc-Vivien Foe 2003. Not all memories can be happy.

The exterior, by twilight.

Whilst the football team appears to have outgrown their former home, the rugby side LOU (Lyon Olympique Universitaire) have made full use of it. With a capacity of about 40,000, it’s much too big for the rugby side and the capacity has been cut accordingly to 25,000. Thankfully, not by knocking down stands and losing its appeal, but rather by judicious use of banners and tarpaulins to cover existing seats. With both upper tiers behind the goals out of bounds, this made for a cosy atmosphere within. And I presume they still have the ability to re-open said areas for bigger occasions?

Upper tier and most of lower tapered off.

As it was, a very decent 17,000 odd turned out to see LOU face local-ish Clermont, who I’d actually heard of, despite trying not to listen to anything about rugby on Radio 5. Turns out they’re lower down than the hosts in this midtable clash. They’d brought a fair few too, most of whom appeared to be in our end. This included a magnificent sixteen-drum ‘orchestra’ who were thankfully stood on the tryline, or whatever it’s called. Anyway, I’d say there was a good 1-2000 away fans, many resplendent with yellow flags.

Some of the drum crew at half-time.

The match wasn’t as bad as I’d feared, though I’d been told by my partner I wasn’t allowed to slag off the game whilst there. (I’d been to rugby once before, at Harlequins. 18 of us went and 12 stayed under the stand at half time. I even went for beers in an effort to miss some of the ‘action’, but was back in my seat within two minutes, such was their efficiency.) I digress. This match didn’t just have piles of big blokes lying on top of a ball at the other end of the ground. There was passing, kicking, attacking. What with an atmosphere too, I was almost enjoying myself (but I had a beautiful stadium to sit and stare at).

Rugby. Big blokes pushing each other. No ball to be seen.

Still, though, the match was decided by a couple of moments of extraordinary ineptitude in the first half. The Clermont left back (I know they’re not left backs in rugby, but god knows what they are called) trotted back to his line as a ball was launched his way, and while he dawdled and then messed up the ball control (these egg-shaped balls don't half bounce funny), the opposition pounced for a try. Then, not to be outdone, the Clermont right back (yeah, yeah) did exactly the same. 12-3 down at half time and that was with them playing well.

The view from behind the goal.

The game became a bit of a rout, but we stayed till the end. Did I say what a beautiful stadium it is? You’d better get yourself there. T1 tram to Debourg, then a 15 minute walk. Or even a metro direct to its own Stade de Gerland stop. Easy there, easy back. A far cry from the crawl back from the football stadium, which is closer to the airport than the city centre. And in true rugby fashion, they have a massive beer (and food) tent for all, while tickets are easily picked up at the door, €20 for a seat behind the goal, or €15 if you’re prepared to stand right at the front – next to the drummers!

The Damage (for 2):
€20 Ent (x2)
Free programme
= €40

Didn’t eat: had already victualled at the legendary Brasserie Georges!