It’s the first day of my holidays and what says holidays more than driving nearly 3 hours to Motherwell to see a football match? After last night’s warmer-upper (Harrogate v Barnsley in a friendly), tonite it’s the real deal, as Sligo Rovers cross the North Sea to do battle in the second season of the Europa Conference League.
Although from the north-east of England, I’ve spent most of my adult life living closer to continental Europe, thus Caledonia is a relatively untapped mine for me. Partick Thistle, Inverness Caledonian Thistle, Ross County…and Berwick Rangers. (Does the latter count? 2 games on a family holiday c.1985. I wrote and asked if they had any home games and received a dot matrix fixture list in reply. My dad just said ‘tell them when you’re coming and they’ll arrange kick-off’. Problies not far wrong.) So when I saw Motherwell (just the right side of Glasgow for it to be drivable) had a game in Europe, I thought, why not?
My knowledge of them was/is negligible. The colours of Bradford City, sponsors Ian Skelly (I’m still talking 1985), famous players…Christ, famous players? Didn’t Davie Cooper play for them? And Jim O’Brien. Barnsley midfielder from about 15 years ago and still eking out an existence for non-league Notts County, last time I looked. Further internet digging brings the nugget that Motherwell have been in the top division since 1986-87. No way! I am seriously impressed with that achievement, less so with my knowledge of the game north of the border.
Having read manager Graham Alexander’s notes, Motherwell have done well to bat above their station last season and the programme column acts as a ready-made excuse for failure to follow. Mind, I think he was referencing the Scottish Premiership rather than to the part timers of Sligo. He may have lost that argument. To put Sligo into perspective, they needed to beat Welsh amateurs Bala on pens in the last round, a side that may or may not be an actual place. (I genuinely have no idea.)
Still, the Oirish travelled in numbers. About 450, but many were around Fir Park pre-match, congregating in the large beer garden outside the 100 Club. Home and away fans mingled and chatted in the warm as I bought my ticket and was asked whether it was for the home or away end. Must be the (English) accent. High up in the stand by the side of the pitch, I said. So obvs she sold me one behind the goal. A home fan asked a Rover what his hopes were for this evening. ‘I’ll settle for a draw.’ Little did he know…
Having bought my ticket, I went for a wander into the town centre. I won’t pass judgement, other than to say it’s very typical of many post-industrial towns in Great Britain. I passed a couple of less-than-friendly looking boozers before coming across the Railway Tavern. Grand, both inside and out, and lots of photos celebrating the industrial heritage of Motherwell, though with a price list to keep out the riff-raff what may have worked there. I enjoyed a £5.30 pint of Neck Oil, which was, at least, a 50p improvement on Harrogate last night. I presume it costs more to transport beer from London to Harrogate than it does Motherwell. In the meantime, I ticked off some Scottish stereotypes; people drinking Irn Bru; whisky chasers; a drunk in the street, arguing with himself. Yep, all there.
I didn’t rush. I had my match ticket, no point in being there early. I got there with 20 minutes to go and it was carnage. Queues for the East Stand went round the ground to the west. Although my ticket was in the Davie Cooper (North) Stand, it wasn’t clear which queue was what. I joined a queue, inched forward to behind the North Stand…my ticket said seat 71….so I joined another queue announcing seats of that number...got to the front…and was told I was in the wrong queue. Go and join that queue over there (the one that was for seat numbers 41-60, or somesuch). Helpful signage at Fir Park. By now, I knew I was missing kick-off. To be fair to the club, I don’t think they expected so many people turning up, over 50% more than their average crowd last season.
Once in and toileted, I went to my seat. Someone else was already sat in it. Fine, he’s with his mates. I climbed the stairs to the back and found an empty place. A couple of minutes later, someone claimed it. I repeated the process. ‘That’s why I always tell people it’s my seat’ said the claimant. Fair enough, I said, but it’s my 1st time and I didn’t want to upset anybody. I found a 3rd seat and lived in hope another latecomer wouldn’t usurp me. The John Hunter (East) Stand was sold out, and this looked like it too. The Main Stand was also packed (the sides having been left empty), leaving a huge double decker opposite me with less than 500 away fans in it. I think it only opens when Celtic or Rangers come to town.
The atmosphere was buzzing. Well fans were obviously excited at their Euro adventure (who wouldn’t be?) but despite the flags and noise of the East Stand ultras, it was their Ugandan centre half Mugabi who stole the show…heading a backpass short for Aidan Keena to run onto and grab the only goal. One competitive game into the new season and my first booing off of the home team, as well as a plastic bottle being hurled at a linesman. Go Motherwell!
The Damage:
£20 ent
£3.50 programme
c£40 petrol
= £63.50
The Tunes:
Psychemagik (Various)
Performance (Spacemen 3)
No. 1 in Heaven (Sparks)
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