Kapfenberger SV 0-0 Wiener Neustadt, Tuesday 15th August 2017

Kapfenberger SV 0-0 Wiener Neustadt (Austrian 1.liga, att. 853)

Welcome to ...

I arrived in Kapfenberg having learnt two things:  they don't have lockers in the station and virtually everything would be closed cos of some religious holiday or other.  I learnt this by chatting to a lovely station lady at the next stop on the train, since I’d missed Kapfenberg by faffing around trying to unplug devices etc.  There are some advantages to missing your stop and having time to chat to a lovely station lady at the next stop is one of them.  If only I'd known sooner, I could have left my luggage in Vienna.  I'd be going back there later anyway.

Ticket booths

So my major concern was where to store my luggage.  Turnstiles are not really designed for large backpacks.  With little in the way of open businesses and the football stadium being close to the station, I headed for the ground.  And what do I see?  A ‘sporthotel’ and an adjoining swimming pool.  I entered the latter and proper landed on my feet when the receptionist let me store my stuff behind her desk.  (Apologies if other members of staff are now tripping over a large backpack.)  Then I decamped to the former and had a meal and a couple of glasses of weissbier (Weihenstephan) in view of the pitch (the sporthotel backs on to the stadium).  It's an hour to kick-off and I'm wondering how this works.  I could sit here drinking beer and see the game through the window, a la an executive box in England.  Or will they close the blinds, a la an executive box?  One down side though.  The ban on smoking indoors appears not to have reached Austria yet.

The bar and restaurant behind the goal.

I left the bar with 10 to 15 minutes to kick-off and did the right thing, joining the ticket queue next door (€12-€18).  I bought a standing ticket and even picked up an Austrian Bundesliga preview mag for free.  Surely the fans at such a game are exactly the people who would have bought it anyway?

I followed the signs for the standing and it turned out to be the visiting section, so I continued around the stadium to be met by a dead end  I showed my ticket to a steward.  I was at the VIP section.  (This stadium had nearly as many stands as the old Manor Ground).  Anyway, he invited me in and suggested I take a shortcut through the ladies and gentry in the exec bit and through the main stand. I got half way before liking the idea of a sit-down and shade.

...and through the VIP lounge.

For an athletics stadium this place still has plenty of charm.  Behind one goal is a small terrace with the bar/restaurant backing onto it.  Today, you could stand and have a beer under one of its umbrellas.  The main stand is the length of the touchline, a cantilever stand with various platforms for the press (‘maximum 4 persons’).

The opposite stand, named the ‘Murauer Tribune’ (after the local brew) extends halfway into each half and houses the closest KSV  have to ultras - half a dozen black people either waving flags or rattling some percussive instrument.  I might have heard one chant all match. I don't know why the more typical (ie, white) locals didn't join in.  Very odd.

The KSV 'ultras'.

The away fans stood on a small terrace next to this stand and the 40 or so Wiener Neustadt  fans got behind the team.  I was momentarily confused later when some fans in the main stand appeared to encourage the away side.  The away seating was in the main stand diametrically opposite their brethren, instead of in the Murauer, adjacent.  As I hopped between seats in the second half, I discovered the non existence of segregation in that main stand.  Well, how often do fights break out in Kapfenberg, a vaguely picturesque town surrounded by hills?

Wiener Neustadt fans.

Finally, in one corner, was the VIP block with its own bar and restaurant and its own stand.  I suspect this stand is tall enough and close enough to the edge of the track that you probably can't see the track, but have a good vantage point for the football.

And if all that isn't reason enough to come and see a game, beer will be served to you in your seat.  This guy got through some exercise, selling his pints (half litres!) then going back to the bar to replenish stock.  I never saw anyone buy a pretzel off him though.  And is it me or is Austrian lager not very nice?

The VIP stand (note: probably not its real name)

The match?  Rubbish.  Wiener, 5 out of 5 in victories thus far and runaway leaders, were as average as the home team, who are somewhere near but not quite the bottom.  Nil-nil and nary a chance between them.  Not even one for the purists.

The Damage:

€12 ent

€3.80 beer

= €15.80

The Tunes:

Barbed Wire Kisses (The Jesus and Mary Chain)

Selected Ambient Works 85-92 (Aphex Twin)

Selected Ambient Works Vol, II (Aphex Twin)

Richard D. James album (Richard D. James)

Music For Films (Brian Eno)

Nowhere (Ride)

For Keeps (Field Mice)

Franz Fekete Stadion panorama

A platform built into the stand for the press.

Hills overlooking the stadium.

What's to stop me just wandering in?

Do NOT follow the signs.

The Murauer Tribune.

Back of the scoreboard.

The Murauer, from behind the goal.

The Main Stand.

The teams' meet 'n' greet.

Angles at Kapfenberger.

Best seats in the house?

Match action.

Best seats in the house?  (II)

The cameraman.

The home terrace.

The Exec stand and adjoining lounge.

Match action.

Beer and pretzels for sale.

Two ladies pretend there isn't a giant bird listening in.

The concourse under the Main Stand.

Stadium plan.

Exec lounge and stand.

Exec lounge...a handy cut-through.

Main press box.

The home straight.

Kapfenberger by night.

A deserted fanshop.