Rot-Weiss Essen 2-1 Borussia Dortmund II, Regionalliga West, att. 14,497 (Stadion Essen)
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So, here we are. After a partner-induced year off, I’m back on the interrailling bandwagon, fitting in as many games as possible while some of Europe’s brightspots (and Essen). And for once, I’m organised, a £49 single on the Eurostar to Amsterdam booked months ago. Whatever the ecological arguments of train v plane, the ease of St. Pancras versus the hassle (both getting there, and once there) of Gatwick/Heathrow is undeniable.
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| The old floodlight lurks over Stadion Essen. |
I dropped my bag at my digs in Dortmund (ironic, considering tonite’s opponents are Borussia Dortmund II), then jumped on a direct train to Essen-Bergeborbeck, a 5 minute walk from the imaginatively entitled Stadion Essen. It’s a new build, roughly on the footprint of the old stadium (one of whose floodlight pylons remained, stalking its new neighbour like a giraffe). But it’s all a bit too sleek for me, 4 one-tier stands of matching height. The ‘Main’ stand has its collection of executive boxes and about the only thins of note is their failure to stretch the full length of the pitch, thereby cutting the view of some seats in the wings. Careless.
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| Looking towards the Main Stand. |
The rest could be Regensburg, or Zwickau, or any other lower division German newbie: One end a home terrace, the opposite away end a mix of terrace and seats (leaning heavily towards the latter, even though the former is more easily filled by the visitors). At Essen, there’s a decent space between the away terracing and seating, presumably to ensure those standing won’t affect any sightlines form the seats (something not considered with the exec boxes). Meantime, either side is all seated, with one stand having some executive box facilities. Normally, the vast majority of fans would be behind the goal, on the terrace. But tonite is slightly different, a local derby with Dortmund’s second team has brought the fans out.
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| A pre-match banner over the seats. |
I considered going in the away end, mainly as I remembered how busy the home end was last time. As it was, it made no difference. Dortmund must have brought 1500+, a tremendous effort for a reserve side, but understandable in the scheme of things, local opposition and the start of the Bundesliga 2 or 3 weeks away. Footie fans need their fix!
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| Borussia even have a banner for their RESERVE side! |
So, with 15 mins to kick-off, I ended up in the home end (as it was the closest to the railway station). I decided against an immediate beer: the queue was busy and besides, I’d had a couple on the train. I wanted a VIEW, which didn’t look promising when I entered the terrace. The steps, officiously kept clear at many a German venue, had fans milling on them and it looked busy, but I fought my way up a few rows and lent against the side of a crush barrier. Perfect.
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| Rot-Weiss Essen line up. |
The game wasn’t a classic. Dortmund had 2 goals disallowed (I had no idea the 1st one was; a goalmouth scramble, a ricochet, a rebound off a post) but RW’s scoreboard resolutely stuck to nil-nil. It was warm though, and after 35 minutes we had ourselves a drinks break. This was my cue to grab a schnitzel and a couple of beers (why have one when you can have two?) Start as I mean to go on. I AM on holiday. Upon my return to the terrace, the scoreboard announced 0-1. I’d missed a goal. Typical.
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| Sustenance, Essen-style. |
Chatting to a local, I asked where Rot-Weiss would come this season. Based on the size of their crowds, they’re a big fish in a moderately sized regionalliga west pool. ‘Somewhere between there and there’ he said, pointing at between 5th and 8th in the table. Nice to hear a bit of modesty-cum-realism, as their crowds befit a side who should win this league. Essen, is, after all, a city of half a million people. On the flipside, Dortmund, Schalke…even Bochum and Duisburg…are on their doorstep. ‘Who will be the challengers (for the title)?’ ‘Aachen, Wupertaker and Sportfreunde Lotte’, my sportfreunde said. Time will tell.
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| The cheerleaders get the locals going. |
As the terrace emptied slightly at half-time, I fought my way to the back for the 2nd half. I’m not a fan of watching a game through a net and being perched higher up can help negate this effect (though not totally). It did look as if Rot-Weiss’s tactics remained the same: pass the ball backwards, backwards, square before kicking it forward and losing it. The one player who stood out was Borussia’s #7, who played out wide, always looked comfortable in possession, never lost it…and was the spit of Marco Reus. Was it Marco Reus? Maybe playing a comeback game. (No.)
The game drifted into nothingness. Dortmund had a tricky (black) forward willing to run at the defence, but he wasn’t ably supported by the big (white) target man whose sluggishness matched his build. Indeed, it was left to RW to form the only chance, the cross coming in…and the free header clearing the bar from 6 yards out. Poor.
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| Tats out for the lads! |
However, with 10 minutes left, the home side had a free kick 25 yards out, to the left of goal. A shooting chance for sure, but any keeper worth his salt shouldn’t be conceding from there. He wasn’t (worth his salt). One-all. No-one expected that. Then, in the 6th minute of injury time, a ball over the top of Dortmund’s defence. The centre halves and centre forward chase it down. The defenders attempt to close down the forward’s run, there’s a coming together and the forward goes down. ‘Penalty’ cry the home end. The ref gives it. Mein Gott. Never in a million years. I can’t believe the ref has bought it. No one cares. Pen despatched the full-time whistle is blown. Arguments break out on the pitch, while the home fans are joyous. This was unexpected half an hour before, where even the famed German atmosphere was ebbing, with the home side looking unlikely to bag. An excellent start to my latest marathon.
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| Full-time! |
Course, it wouldn’t be a match if I didn’t mess up somewhere…#startasyoumeantogoon…I jumped on a train going the wrong way and ended up going to Dortmund via Oberhausen. Word to the wise: next time, take one of them (free) footie buses to Essen Hauptbahnhof.
The Damage:
€11 ent
€4 beer (’Staunde’ 500ml x2)
€4 schnitzel
free: match programme/newspaper (picked up off terrace)
= €23
The Tunes:
Family of Aliens (Teleman)
Microshift (Hookworms)
Amazing Grace (Spiritualized)
Claustrophobia (Scuba)
Pentamerous Metamorphosis (Chapterhouse/Global Communication)
Late Night Tales (Jon Hopkins)
Stayed at: (cost)
A&O Dortmund Hauptbahnhof, £19
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| Stadion Essen panorama |
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| Leave your bottles here |
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| The away end |
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| There's even drums in the seats... |
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| Here's a 1st: cheerleaders for reserve games. |
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| Those crazy boys of Essen |
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| Sunset in Essen. |
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