GKS Katowice 1-2 Puszcza Niepolomice, Friday 11th August 2017

GKS Katowice 1-2 Puszcza Niepolomice (Polish 1.liga, att. 1,750)

The stadium from the training pitch.

I know how to treat myself.  Up at 6 to visit Auschwitz, followed by a game in the evening.  This was a second tier fixture involving GKS Katowice an, extremely underachieving side surrounded by more illustrious local provincial sites such as Ruch Chowzow and Gornik Zabrze.  I’d been before, so finding the stadium was easy, one stop from Katowice railway station to Katowice Zaleze ,then turn right, under the tracks, and up the hill.  There is a tram stop much closer to the stadium which I got on my return though.

The Main Stand.

The last time I was here, the away fans (local rivals Zaglebie Sosnowiec) were throwing flares at the home supporters and up turning portaloos.  Tonight promised to be much calmer, as the away side, Puszcza Niepolomice, didn't even seem to have any support.  I've never heard of them.  Is it some village hundreds of miles away?  (According to Wikipedia it is a town of 14,700, somewhere near Krakow….and it’s claim to fame is in being the 15^th most polluted city of the European Union, according to the World Health Organisation.  Blimey.)

The away end.  Sparse.

With an hour or so to kick off the ticket booths weren't busy.  I gave them my passport and came out with a ticket in the main stand, no doubt the best view as the older stand opposite is simply seats on terrace under a beam-laden roof.  Behind one goal is a small open stand for the visitors, while the opposite end still has the curved terrace of yesteryear (though it's sadly closed).  The oak tree which gives the stadium its name (‘stadion ul. Bukowa’ or ‘Beech Street Stadium’ – go figure) is still there.

The oak trees of Beech Street Stadium.

I filled my time with a walk through Park Slaski to see how Stadion Slaski (formerly the national team’s main stadium) is coming along.  It was nearly finished when I was last here a couple of years ago.  I was also intrigued.  Google described it as permanently closed.  Did it mean the old knocked down stadium?Cos surely you don't spend the amount of money they (who are they?) have on a replacement without intending to use it.  To cut it short the stadium looks built, the roads around it needing a finishing touch.

Stadion Slaski...nearly there?

After that walk I was really tired and grateful of a seat and good view.  The stand at GKS was fairly busy, while the ultras in the stand opposite had dwindled in number somewhat since I was last here.  They were still in good voice and there were a couple of calls and response with the main stand.  They were also full of cheer when they took the lead, a cross being blocked straight into the path of the centre forward who side footed first time into an empty net.

The view from the Main Stand.

Oh, I nearly forgot.  I'd brought my klobasa (sausage) and beer to my seat, delicately balancing my bread roll.  Inevitably, as I bit into my sausage, the roll rolled off and underneath a seat.  Seeing my disappointment, a fellow fan dug underneath to pick it up. 5 second rule, right?  After a rub down it was ready to eat again.

A fan shows his colours.

I moved a few seats further back at halftime.  My second beer needed a higher perch and I was in the right place as GKS play became more rugged - I was in the heart of the cynical element, taking the p*** out of their team.  I got the impression they were almost pleased to see the villagers equalise with a 25 yarder.

The GKS ultras.

Worse was to come as Puszcza nicked a winner, a header from a left wing cross.  From now on, open mockery was the order of the day, in particular as GKS attempted to get back into the game by kicking the ball square or backwards. GKS never came close to levelling and the locals weren't happy.

Katowice'c chances deflate in front of a deserted terrace.

As is custom the home players made their way to the ultras to give thanks.  A small clap and most of the team beat a hasty retreat.  Two were braver (one was the captain, I think), conversing with the ultras.  I think they were being placatory rather than antagonistic. Whatever, the players came away shirtless.  Gifts?  Or not fit to wear them?

Players and fans exchange a few words.

One thing to note:  I’ve always wondered how the ultras in Poland have money to fund their fireworks and banners. A couple of youths came round collecting from the majority and I happily stuck in a few coins, for which I was given a a rather natty sticker.  Good on them (the ultras).  They provide the atmosphere and spectacle to which we all enjoy.

Ultras' donation present.

The Damage:
No idea – I didn’t write it down.  Cheap.

The Tunes:
Countdown 1992-1983 (Pulp)
Intro – The Gift Recordings (Pulp)

Ticket booth.

The view from behind the goal.

Some would rather stand.

An injured player is tended to.

The ultras.

Inside the Main Stand.

A winning player is interviewed.

A shirtless player returns.

GKS Katowice 0-1 Zagłębie Sosnowiec, Saturday 8th August 2015

GKS Katowice 0-1 Zagłębie Sosnowiec (att. 6,700)

lemme in, lemme in.

I’d done my homework. I knew Gornik Zabrze kicked off at 14:30 or 15:30 (it was the latter) and GKS kicked off at 18:00 or 19:00. So I presumed it was the latter (I put my uncertainty of kick-off times down to the difference between GMT/CET. Obviously, if one was the later time, QED, so would the other.) You can see where this is going.

Get your tickets here.

I caught a train from Zabrze to Katowice Zaleze and walked. Cross the line, head up ‘Bracka’ and keep going. When I arrived at the stadium, I saw some fans on top of the fence, or looking through the gates. Was the game a sell out? For a 2nd division game? No, I could see some empty seats in the large stand to my right. Another fan staggered past me. Too drunk to be allowed in? Anyway, the ticket booth was still open and even better, no queue.

The Main Stand

I gained my GKS membership (take your passport with you to Polish games) and match ticket. 25 zloty or four pounds and some pence. I went straight into the stand (‘you can sit anywhere’). Everyone seemed to be wearing yellow while the team wore white. The match was already in full swing. To cut a story short, I didn’t realise how much of the game I’d missed and that it was actually the SECOND half. Realisation dawned on me when I went to beat the half time rush and visit the souvenir stall I’d seen earlier, only to find them packing up. I hurried back to catch the last few minutes.

Functional not pretty.

The stadium is a bit of a throwback. I don’t think it’s changed since England played here in the 80s. There is still the semblance of an athletics track at one end, with a small terrace (now closed) behind it. On here sits the oak trees (!) of Beech Street. At the opposite end is a small terrace presumably built on top of the old athletics track. I can’t see it hosting another international anytime soon.

The unused home terrace.

I was in the main stand, a steep, large, single-tier which dominates the ground. I don’t know when it was built but it’s definitely seen better days. The ultras were on the longside opposite, a smallish terrace given over to seats. Nobody was sitting. At one point it looked like the entire stand was awash with flags. Then the flags came down and the flares were lit. Loads of them, fantastically co-ordinated. The tannoy announcer came alive. Second time in a day (after Gornik Zabrze earlier). This must be how they escape punishment. ‘We searched them when they came in and we told them they shouldn’t do it, but what can we do?’

The flares are lit.

This was the cue for the away fans to start chucking flares AT the fans in that stand. No harm done, they fell just short. No wonder 1/3 of that stand lay empty. It’s almost like they knew. The away support continued to hurl objects at the police and upturn a portaloo before returning to their terrace. Who were these badboys? It was none other than Zagłębie Sosnowiec. Who? Turns out it’s a local derby, though I’d already sussed the away following of 1,000+ was uncommonly numerous for a Polish second division game.

Flares thrown from the away end.

The masked ultras would throw their missile then retreat into the mass. Most of their number wore black. The police simply stood their ground. Waiting for them to run out of ammo? Needless to say, the away fans were kept inside at full time while the home fans were dispersed. This was no great chore; they were celebrating. I hadn’t seen a goal in the second half (though plenty of GKS possession) but the way Zagłębie celebrated, I presume they won. It was a bit OTT if the result was anything else.

The inquests begin...

Afterwards I wandered through Park Slaski, next door. What a place! It had a steam train, a (small) rollercoaster, bars, all sorts. As well as, tonight only, a free rock concert. If noodly guitaring by long haired middle aged men is your thang, this is ya place. Or you could continue walking and see how Stadion Slaski (the old national stadium) is developing from an open bowl of 100,000 to the ultra modern stadium Poland is full of since Euro 2012.

The Damage:
PLZ 25 ent= PLZ 25 (£4)

The flags are held aloft...

...before the flares are lit

until...

most of the stand looks on fire

sorry, ALL of the stand.

A bit more laidback in the Main Stand.

Looking towards the away end.

Female cheerleaders in front of the kids' section.

More trouble in the away end.

Some homesters itching for a quick getaway.

The stand cools down.

GKS's partner club in the Czech Republic.  Nice touch.

The sun sets over GKS.

The yellow hordes file out at full time.