Wednesday, 6 August 2014

SG Sonnenhof Großaspach 1-1 Stuttgarter Kickers, Tuesday 5th August, 2014

SG Sonnenhof Großaspach 1-1 Stuttgarter Kickers, 3.liga, att. 6,421

200 metres past Molyneux the Mechatronik Arena

Sometimes, no matter what advance research you do, you;re best just following the pack.  So much for my printing of local bus timetables, directions to the ground, etc...at the nearest railway station (Backnang) I noticed a huddle of Kicker fans.  Just do what they do, I thought (but what if they were being picked up by their mates?)  No worries, nevermind 'ordinary' public transport, there was a shuttle bus to the 'Mechatronik Arena'.  The advantage of promotion to 3.liga for tiny Sonnenhof Grossaspach, a side with an average crowd of 600 last season. We're off to the COUNTRYSIDE! (Rushden and Diamonds, anyone?)


pre-match ticket queues

Despite having the walking directions, you;d be insane to hike it.  Not only is it miles away from the station, on obscure country roads, you wake a wrong turn and it'll cost you an hour. One hop on the shuttle bus and you're there, albeit in twenty minutes or so.  But I was determined to see a game at this place, figuring they'll not last long in this division with crowds as they have.  (Population: 7955 according to Wikipedia.)  And even better, it was a local derby; Stuttgarter Kickers was possibly their biggest game of the season anyway.

The side stand (I don't think any have names)

The Mechatronik Arena (nee Comtech Arena) is built on a hill, somewhere outside of town (Aspach?), surrounded by forest on three sides. With an hour and a half to kick off, I bought my ticket (home terrace) with minimal fuss and had a wander.  It's an odd little stadium.  Photos I'd seen of it don't quite do it justice.  While three sides look incredibly staid and boring, even that's not the case.  The back of the stand (imagine a 'C' shaped stand, covering all 3 sides) is mostly open at the back.  All very nice in summer (which it was), but winter...?


How open is THIS?

 However, the ace in the pack in terms of this stadium is the 4th side.  While the other three sides wrap around each in uniformity, the 'Main Stand' on the 4th side barely covers half the length of the pitch. Built into it is what looks like an alpine lodge, with the most perfectly formed 'executive area' - picnic tables with umbrellas on a balcony overlooking the pitch.  And next to it, in the corner of the ground nearest the home end, sits a large beer garden covered with tarpaulin (one of whose ropes was tied to a crush barrier on the home terrace).  While prohibitively for the business classes before and during the game, the Great Unwashed could venture in afterwards for a snifter.

THIS is what I call a 'stand'!

Being a village team unused to Bundesliga culture, most fans appeared to want to sit.  The (small) home terraced area had plenty of space, though a small group decided it was wise to stand right at the entrance/exit, presumably to get in as many people's ways as possible.  The 'ultras' meantime consisted of one young lad (20?) orchestrating around 15 others.  They generally did well for themselves and I felt sorry when no-one else joined in.  Though given the relatively huge crowd (6,421) perhaps most had never been before.  When the PA announcer introduced a Sonnenhof player, eg, 'Max ..........Weber!' hardly anyone would shout the player's surname, as is the norm.  (FYI that was an example, I don't think any of the players shared the name of a 19th century sociologist.)

Let the orchestrating begin!

I'd chosen to come to Sonnenhof for a few reasons.  Firstly, they were a new team to the 3.liga and, as I said, probably favourites to go straight back down.  It also looked like a difficuly place to get to (by train) which represented a challenge.  And with a 10,000 stadium and 600 fans, a local derby v Stuttgarter Kickers represented the best chance of seeing this place have a crowd.  Oh, and since I too was coming from Stuttgart, I thought this increased my chances of knowing whether I was on the right track.

The teams come out in front of the away end

The first half was very open. Wingers were very much to the fore (had I stepped back to the 1950s?) with the Kickers left winger in particular giving his opposite number a roasting.  Sadly (thankfully - I was cheering on the underdog) there never quite seemed enough forwards in the box to latch onto all the crosses and cutbacks.

With Sonnenhof only having occasional breaks, it was no surprise when Kickers finally took the lead.  A ball was played out to the right and the cross was bundled in at the near post.  I know not what part of his anatomy it came off, but it wasn't the foot or the head. I wondered if this would be the start of a landslide.

Koln have their goat, Hereford their bull...and 'aspach have a donkey???

It wasn't a landslide.  Just before half time, Sonnenhof got a free kick, 25 yards out, to the left of the goal as you look at it.  The wall was prepared, the keeper was ready, yet the ball sailed over the wall and and into the net, somewhere not far off the middle of the goal.  The keeper must have coe out expecting a cross, because, given where the ball hit the net  - and he never got close - he was miles out of position.  Then the ref blew for half time.

I decided to relieve myself and replenish my empty beer glass (not at the same time).  No chance.  A la Nurnberg, I could hapily have a beer as long as I was prepared to miss a considerable chunk of 2nd half action.  Oh well.  I couldn't even go and peruse the souvenir shop (a couple of ladies with a trestle table full of scarves cos that was at the back of the seating area, divided by metal barriers).

The big cheeses and their beer tent (I need to earn more money)

The second half was a bit of  damp squib with few chances.  Indeed, the 'highlight', such as it was, was how the match ended.  With there blatantly being a minute or so left, a Kickers player got injured.  However, as he was led off the pitch he appeared to collapse, giving everyone cause for concern.  Cue 'proper' ambulancemen running onto the pitch and getting the stretcher out.  With people all around looking shocked, after a couple of minutes delay, the ref decided enough was enough and simply blew for full time.  The player by then had his head up and was rubbing it, so I presume he was ok.

Heath and Safety would have a field day with this

After the game, I jumped on a (free) shuttle bus, which traversed a different part of the countryside.  I expect it was all part of some one-way system they run after the match.  However, with one country lane and numerous cars parked in adjacent fields, it shouldn't have been unexpected that we got caught in traffic.  You miss those fast getaways sometimes, especially when you're standing up surrounded by chain-smoking Kickers rebels.  Rock and roll!

Come on Sonnenhof Grossaspach! (catchy)

I also found myself on the middle of two English-language conversations.  In one, a young lad flirted madly with some blonde he'd never met before, while in the other, a 70 year old Scotch bloke in full Kickers regalia chatted to a younger English bloke.  It could have been his son (but I don't think so) who it seemed lived in Stuttgart and knew a little German.  Anyway, he described his description of our sojourn to the countryside as thus:


'You've heard people describe a place as in the arse end of nowhere?  Well, this place is the arse end of the arse end of nowhere.'

He had a point.

The Damage:
€10 ent
???  beer and wurst.  I can't remember.  Useless.

The tunes:

Strange Cargo III (William Orbit)


Backside of the longside
Back of the away end (spot the clues)
The away end
I'm a sucker for a team coach...
THAT stand again.  Beautiful.
Match action
Plan of stadium



Monday, 4 August 2014

1. FC Nürnberg 1-0 Erzgebirge Aue, Sunday 3rd August 2014

1. FC Nürnberg 1-0 Erzgebirge Aue, Bundesliga 2, att. 37,116

Beyond the stadium, the old Nazi Party Rally Grounds
I'd had my eyes on a visit to the Frankenstadion since Nürnberg were relegated, even if the vagaries of the fixture list meant a long trip down from Hamburg.  Still, the journey passes quicker when you're drinking on the train with St. Pauli fans!

The Grundig Stadion (to give its official title) is easy to get to from Nürnberg Hbf, even if it's a bit far to walk.  A plethora of trains, trams and buses can be got, to the stadium or the nearby Dokumentzentrum (a MUST if you've never been).  I caught a train.



I had an hour before kick-off so I had a wander around the outside.  Red hot and it looked busy.  I eyed up the Nürnberg ticket booths.but I could only see the price of seats; were the terraces sold out? I hit on the idea of the away end - after all, Aue are a small team, they're the underdog, could do with the support, etc....and there'd be plenty of space!  Wrong.  Although I entered the ground early, by KO I was crammed in (no chance of being crushed to death; there were barriers every two steps.) There was rail seating but these were locked 'up'.  But Aue had come in numbers.

Aue fans relax outside
The atmosphere was rocking but I'd been adopted by an older Aue fan who explained passionately what supporting Aue meant to him.  (He never missed a match home or away, though he wasn't happy with the made-for-TV Friday and Monday evening kick-offs.  I wouldn't be impressed either.)  'You'd think we were in Aue' he said, as the low ceiling meant no escape from the noise.  'What chance do Aue have today?' I asked.  'No chance,'  Optimistic, then.

The teams come out.  I think.
The first half was generally even, yet Nürnberg still fashioned four superb opportunities to score. Aue scraped in level at half time.  The Nürnberg Ultras flag-waving hadn't stopped, yet their other terrace had no flags whatsoever.  You pays yer money and yer takes yer choice, though both looked rammed to capacity.  Maybe there WERE no terrace tickets left.

Aue must have brought 2500-3000 and I could barely escape for a p*** and a beer.  I achieved the former and spent the rest of half time nowhere near achieving the other.  With one or two refreshment stalls unopened, I wonder if 1.FCN underestimated the away turnout?

Come on Aue!
I squeeze back into my place and it's a good job I didn't continue queuing for a beer cos 10 minutes in and it's the only goal of the game - 1.FCN burst from midfield, the guy knocks the ball on for another teammate to burst through and pick his spot.  I thought he'd maybe kicked it too far in front of him, but the keeper, slow to come out, gave himself no chance.

Nürnberg's octagon of a stadium
Now, I don't know if the goal was the catalyst, but two minutes later a fight broke out in the away end.  A youngish, but physically overbearing specimen wanted a piece of a large 50-something, beer-belly and all.  'You're a big man but you're out of shape'.  Still, if dogs look like their owners, and if this one had a dog, it'd be a (fat) pit bull.  A few punches were thrown before each was pulled back by other fans.  Full marks to one lad, not as big as either of these two, who positioned himself between them while acting as peacemaker.

Futuristic, yet aged.  An enigma.
The rest of the match had less excitement, though Aue can claim they threw the draw away as, with 3 mins left, their guy ran beyond the Nürnberg defence from a free kick, controlled it, before stabbing wide from 6 yards.  Okay, the keeper ran at him, but he absolutely bottled it.

So, on this most sweltering of days, I found myself clad in a purple and white 'Wismut' (never 'Erzgebirge'; it's a throwback to their former days) scarf, a present from my chaperone, 'Joachim'.  I wish 'Wismut' all the best this season.  It's going to be a struggle, but you never know.

Attendance: 37,116

The Damage:
€14 ent
€3.90 beer

View from the away end
The Apollo Space Station
Aue, Aue, what's the score?
I thought Grundig disappeared in the 70s?
Hints of Nürnberg's dark past


Sunday, 3 August 2014

St. Pauli 1-1 Ingolstadt, Saturday 2nd August 2014 (Bundesliga 2)

This is who we are!

I believe it was Oscar Wilde who once said 'To miss kick off once is misfortune, to do it twice looks like carelessness'.  I think he'd been to see Accrington Stanley that day.  I've f***ed up again.  I'm on a train an hour out of Hamburg, having fallen asleep and missed my stop.  Ironically, 
I'm currently listening to an album called 360°, cos that's what I'm gonna have to do. Tho' technically I s'pose, it's more like 180 degrees.  God, I'm confused.


The new Gegengerade

After yesterday's debacle at RW, getting there at HT, I face similar if not worse today. My train from Dortmund was half an hour late and I've messed everything up completely by sleeping through the Hamburg stop. Being a long distance inter-city, it's not due to stop again till Schwerin. It arrives 14:08 and if the regional train remains 13 mins late, I'll be able to get back to Hamburg for 15:36  plus 13 minutes. Kick off is 15:30.  F*** f*** f***.



The South Stand
(Later)
What a day I've had, in one word, 'mixed'. I made it to the game - well the last 35 minutes. Got to Millerntor at HT then spoke to a lady outside Fanladen / security / security outside club shop / head of security (to a level!)  It was mad. Phone calls made (no answer - they were at a MATCH!) texts sent ... Fanladen closed (there's a game on!) Do people realise I'm not there yet?


On the Gegengerade

Just kidding. The last security guy grabbed a be-dreadlocked fan (X) outside and said fan tried this, that and everything to get me in. Fortunately a) there were blocks against letting anyone in and b) he appeared high up in the Fanladen and had the ways - and most importantly the means - to get me in, tho' it took time and involved one Securitate turning us away, despite me wearing some access all areas badge cos apparently I was already in the ground! No point arguing when you're in the wrong ... so a couple of unlocked doors here and there and I'm handed someone else's season ticket (but I must give it back as soon as I'm in). Anyway, there were two people who were helping me, so presuming they don't want me to name names, I'll say this:


i) I went back to the Fanladen after the game and they'd sold my ticket cos I'd not turned up (fair enough)
ii) I found X in his office after the game and offered him ten euros to have a couple of drinks on me ... But he declared he couldn't do that but he'd put the money towards the youth team. How very St. Pauli and I can only say thanks to everyone involved. I just hope my name isn't tarnished as a no-turner-upper!

Designed to hook into your pocket...

After the match as I went to pay for my match ticket (no need) and found Y (need), I got to the Hbf in plenty of time to get my stuff from my locker ... But here's the thing, it turns out there are LOTS of lockers in Hamburg Hbf, in lots of different places.  'A lot of people in a lot of high places'; I suddenly had an urge for Spaceman 3. Indeed, maybe I should play 'Rollercoaster'.  This must make no sense to anyone normal. 

I caught the train out of Hamburg with seconds to spare.

Beer snake after the match

I got in to the game 55 minutes down and 0-1 (I knew the latest score, at some point in the rigmarole I saw it in the club shop). I was thirsty and before long I was off for a beer. Honestly, I needed it. 5.5 euros (including deposit) I was at the top of the terrace , towards the halfway line. Made a change from behind the goal.  It wasn't as noisy as I'd been used to, tho the jingling of keys at corners persisted.


Maybe it was the football - St. Pauli never looked like scoring.  Ingolstadt missed 2 great opportunities, both saved by the keeper, one-on-one. Then from nothing the St. Pauli forwards fashioned a chance, and, in slow motion, the ball came off the boot of Gonther and into the top corner. He looked as surprised as us. Cue beer in the air, beer over my leg.

Imagine the whole terrace like this...

It finished one-all, and which I shouldn't grumble at given St. Pauli's get out of jail free card, but the last 2 home games I'd seen late winners so I expected better!


Later I nearly missed my connection to Nürnberg cos of the locker situation and I was so 'pumped' I needed a beer...leading me to drinking in the refreshment carriage with 3 other St. Pauli fans from Wolfsburg and near Kassel.  One of them, a lawyer, was bemused to learn that 'glass' could be used as a verb in English.  (I'd been amazed we'd been given glass glasses.)  It took a couple of seconds on me.  WTF is a 'verb'?  Then it struck me. 'To glass'? THIS is England's gift to the world! The verb 'to glass'. Some things just make me proud.
After match thanks
The Damage:
€10 ent
€3.50 beer
€15 t-shirt

The tunes:
360° (Dreadzone)
Losing Touch With My Mind (Spacemen 3)
Sound of Confusion (Spacemen 3)
Rubycon (Tangerine Dream)


Club shop warning

Saturday, 2 August 2014

Rot-Weiss Essen 1-1 Sportfreunde Lotte, Friday 1st August 2014 (Regionalliga West)

Old floodlight, new stadium

Rot-Weiss Essen 1-1 Sportfreunde Lotte (Regionalliga West), att: 10,260
Platzek 26’                Batarilo-Cerdic 51’

I’m an idiot. An over-confident idiot. The very worst kind of idiot. Despite having bags of time to get to a 7:30pm KO, setting off from nearby Dortmund at 5ish, I never got to this game till half time. In a nutshell: slow train to Essen, quick (failed) nip to Schwarz-Weiss Essen to have a look at their stadium but it looked like a jungle out there and I didn’t have time to get lost; by which time, all the Rot-Weiss shirts at Essen station had disappeared. This had repercussions, despite knowing to get on Line 2 to Bergeborbeck, as the train trundled through the industrial Ruhr, I realised I’d gone further than I anticipated, so I jumped off at the next station (Kray Nordbahnhof). Turned out I was too early (though, in a way, it didn’t matter, since the train was branching a different way at Gelsenkirchen). I thought I’d simply go back to Essen and start all over again. Perhaps there was a shuttle bus at the station for latecomers? I checked the timetable at one of those fabulous DB machines (far superior to the English versions).  Everything was all over the place. I needed a bus, a walk, a U-bahn and a tram.  Christ.

The Main Stand.

I wasn't going to get to the tram station nearest the stadium till nearly half time.  Luckily, He was obviously looking out for me, cos after a couple of stops, four punks in RW scarves got on the bus, so I simply followed them.  Instead of whatever the DB machine told me, they took me on line 101, where, by the time they got off, a couple more fans had entered the picture. Perhaps a HT entrance at RW is not so rare - or a 7:30 on a Friday is no time for a kick-off!

The away end.  I PROMISE you there's 46 of 'em.

The stadium is brand new (2012) replacing a previous one in more or less the same position (a la Blackpool...or Wembley...or Carlisle if it ever gets finished).  Charmingly, they've left one of the old floodlights still standing, just outside the new-build.  The ticket booth was still open and, whether it was my English accented attempt at German, or just that it was HT, the mature lady who served me charged me half price - €5.  THERE'S customer service for you.  I have every intention of going back purely because of this.

I wonder who decided the ratio...?  And how?

While I could see the away end was empty, which was tempting, the booth was at the home end, so I elected to stand on that terrace.  Once past the turnstile, the concourse was packed.  No worries - there must be plenty of room on the terrace. It was busy there too, most of the crowd choosing the home end terrace.  I'd expected a crowd of 6-7000 for this 4th tier game, in the end it was 10,260, of which the best part of 6000 were behind that goal.  They certainly weren't in the away end, where I counted 46 Sportfreunde fans (twice - just checking!)  Those away fans in the seats were easier to count: nil.

Half time at Rot-Weiss.

I found the stadium a bit odd.  It seems they've knocked down a cosy, if ramshackle stadium of 20,000 for something big, bright and white, all high roofs and open corners.  While one end houses a large terrace, opposite, the stand is split between seats and standing.  I'm not sure how many teams in Regionalliga West will fill that, but RW obviously have pretensions to reaching the higher echelons again (they were in Bundesliga 2 until 2007).

The home end

I stood right at the top of the terrace.  No beer or wurst - I couldn't miss any 2nd half action. Sportfreunde looked the better team and certainly their attackers gelled , playing some excellent one-touch stuff.  RW meantime looked very 'English', with 2 up front, one a lumbering wreck and the other even worse.  They could barely hold a ball up between them while long hoofs up front merely left the midfield miles behind play.

Was this an afterthought?

Then, a ball was played through the RW defence and the Lotte forward shrugged off the challenge and blasted a half volley past the head of the keeper.  Shearer-esque.  I nearly burst into a round of applause but no-one else in the home end looked amused.  Too timid to ask, I had to guess the score from people's demeanors.  I'd say 0-1. (No scoreboard in the new stadium.  When you DON'T need one, they're everywhere.)

Come on Rot-Weiss!

RW had tremendous support.  Constant chanting, despite no response from the away end and a home performance where the closest they came to scoring was a 20 yarder which skimmed into the keeper's arms.  At the end, the RW players were made to listen to 5 minutes of chanting before crawling themselves off.  I revised my score prediction to 1-1 (which it turned out it was).  Surely these fans wouldn't have stuck around to show their adoration for a big city team who'd lost to some village minnows?

That's my boy block!

Afterwards, I wouldn't get a sew-on badge (sold out) but I'm worried I am developing a new crush; pin badges showing the stadium.  I am up to 3 - Borussias Mönchengladbach and Dortmund, as well as RW.

The Damage: 
ent: €5 (!)
postcard / badge €5.50
badge: €3
Beer: €3
bratwurst: €2.50 (after the game, obvs)
= €19

The tunes:  
The Death of Cool (Kitchens of Distinction)

Nice angles at Stadion Essen
Back of the Main Stand
The home end under lights.




Friday, 1 August 2014

Mainz 05 1-0 Asteras Tripolis, Thursday 31st July 2014


Come see the Roman ships!

Mainz (Germany) 1-0 Asteras Tripolis (Greece) Europa League 3rd qualifying round, 1st leg, att: 18,287
Okazaki 45’
In a field, far, far away...
Note to self: If the train to Mainz is 12:25 and there’s only one train leaving Frankfurt at 12:25, QED that does NOT mean that train is going to Mainz. Instead, you’ll have a half hour meander into the countryside and back. Good job I had time to kill. I still got to Mainz about 6 hours before KO. Time enough to walk to the stadium if need be (it’s miles away) or have an amble to their old ground (about 10 mins from the station). Handily, for tonite’s Europa League qualifier, I was able to buy a ticket at the old ground before having a look around Mainz.

Have no doubt where you are

Despite it’s Roman heritage, Mainz didn’t turn out to be as interesting as I expected, though you can look at some old Roman boats dug up relatively recently (I did) and the Gutenburg Museum, home of a very old bible (I didn’t). However, too much of the town is ‘precinct-y’ a la Kaiserslautern, though with the odd grand building thrown in. You’re better off having the day in Frankfurt, to be honest. Now, if I walk at 3 miles an hour, I must’ve done 12 miles around Mainz (and the rest). So, deserving of a pre-match pint, I headed towards the station, where shuttle buses take fans to the new ground (the Coface Arena). So here’s a tip – right opposite the station is an excellent tapas bar where one can also enjoy the delights of Schöfferhofer weizen.

One of the corner blocks

Dunno about you, but I love a good wheat beer. Then a thought hit me (it helped that I was looking at the menu): I don’t wanna be at the ground hungry – what if it’s got one of those modern fandangled card payment things? So, ‘chorizo’ was my wurst of the day. The Coface Arena is MILES away but a 10 minute trouble free journey by (free) bus. German efficiency, etc. But the stadium is so far away, it got me thinking – what was the last ground I went to which was the last building in town? Wycombe? Furthermore, the Coface is even built in the MIDDLE of farmers’ fields. You have to walk side by side with crops to reach their new cathedral – it’s (supposed) architectural magnificence celebrated in a book in the club shop (€29).


Listen: you have all the space you want, unimpeded by stuff like other buildings…sewers…tube lines..rivers…and this is the best you can come up with? Another concrete carbuncle with splashes of red coating it. Inside, both ends are single tier (good for noise), with one being the home terrace for Bundesliga games. Tonight, Matthew, I’m seating. At the opposite end there is a corner for the visitors’ terracing (not tonite, Josephine) while the main stand has two rows of exec boxes. There are no more boxes. The areas at the top of each stand are taken up with concrete pillars, the inbetween of which look perfect for boxes, yet are merely the frontage to the concourse. This all gives it a cheap and unfinished look. And being in the middle of fields, whilst I’m jolly pleased there’s a shuttle bus service, you still face a walk of 500m to get to the stadium.

A stadium with its own exhaust pipes!

For a Europa League qualifier, it was a decent turnout – just over 18,000. And as the teams came out, it occurred to me: I had no idea who Mainz were playing. Turns out to be a Greek team I’ve never heard of (I looked it up later). Despite this, they looked pretty slick and threatened several times, invariably through their right winger Badibanga, who looked (and played?) like Gervinho, the ex-Arsenal guy with the interesting hairstyle. I wondered if it was partly Badibanga’s look which got him noticed (thinking of Alex Ferguson’s claim once that blond players were over represented in his team’s scouting cos they stand out). However, when Badi was subbed with ten minutes left, the home support cheered him off and he milked the applause, waving to all sides. (Note: turns out he’s a 22 year old Belgian and has played for the national under 21s).

The banners go up...
Until...

Mainz won 1-0. A tale of backpost finishes, as Okazaki stabbed home a loose ball from a header in the last minute of the first half. The Greeks, hard done by, later missed their own chance as Badibanga beat his man (again) and banged it (sorry) across for an onrushing forward to slide wide. One of these two players will go onto better things. Both sides hit the woodwork, the Greek effort being a 20 yard thunderbolt which smashed against the bar and landed outside the box. Something else I noticed: the lack of can/bottle collectors at the stadium, a ritual anywhere else in Germany as folk take advantage of the deposits to be had. Is the stadium really so far away that no-one can be bothered? Or is Mainz more affluent than other German cities? Thus, there’s more for the council/football club to clean up. I bet they never thought of THAT when they designed this stadium.

Will these one day be exec boxes?
The Damage: 
ent: €15
badge: €4

Today's tunes:
Heaven or Las Vegas (Cocteau Twins)
Wakin on a Pretty Day (Kurt Vile)
Ferment (Catherine Wheel
Zing Zong (Kanda Bongo Man)

Match action

Not so busy on this side (the expensive side?)

Early evening sun at the Coface





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