Saturday, 9 August 2014

Usti Nad Labem 1-2 Znojmo, Friday 8th August 2014

Usti Nad Labem 1-2 Znojmo, Czech FNL, att. 1,212

Not really what you want to be seeing...

What would one do without TV or the internet?  Upon digesting the analysis (!) of Viktoria's game last night, they showed the weekend's Czech League fixtures. But they were somewhat different to what I'd found on the internet the week before (and subsequently booked my accommodations).

I'd planned on seeing Dukla Friday and a long trip to Ostrava on Satdy to see Banik.  However, Banik were now playing Fri night (for telly) and Dukla was Satdy.  A quick double check on my other intended games and I found there WAS another Friday possibility, much more conducive to staying in Prague the same night and that was Usti Nad Labem in the FNL (Czech 2nd tier).  Even better, it was more or less on the way to Prague!

Again, not what I normally see on the way to a game.
I'd been to Usti before - when I arrived in Decin the previous morn, I took the wrong train and spent half an hour there.  It was quiet, but it was early.  What I didn't know was that it was the Czech Republic's 7th biggest city.  Yet you cannot buy a postcard in this town and it's football stadium has a capacity of 3,000 (3,500 on its own website).  It had been refused promotion a couple of years previous because the stadium didn't meet the right guidelines.  In a prior promotion they were allowed to use nearby Teplice's ground, but the goalposts had since moved (sorry).  What I can say is that neither Usti nor Liberec figure in my Lonely Planet Guide to Central Europe.  Good - I won't be distracted from my mission to get to the game on time.

Everything looks simple according to my tourist-information obtained map, find 'Masarykova' and keep walking till you hit the stadium (about 1.5km).  And since I'm sat here nursing a Pilsner Urquell in sight of Masarykova...

Back of the main stand
Kick-off was to be 5pm on a Friday. Do these people not have to go to work?  Do they all start early? Knock off early?

Oh look - there's a Czech bloke with a Wigan Athletic top on. THAT'S not something I expected to see.

5pm.  It is absolutely ROASTING here in Usti.  I walked the 25-30 mins uphill to the stadium, despite numerous buses and trams passing by.  I'll remember those for later. However, with 25 minutes to KO, the turnstiles were STILL closed.  WTF?  I wandered around, took some snaps..and it was still closed.  Mind, the others who'd been waiting by the turnstiles had disappeared.  I could see plenty of people on the far side of the ground, so I ducked down some side streets and found myself outside the open turnstiles.  Phew.

I'm not the only one waiting for the turnstiles to open
For reasons that weren't entirely clear, Usti hadn't opened the large stand I'd previously been standing outside.  This was a blow, since those seats were in the SHADE.  On our side, a tiny roof covered a few hundred seats, all of which were taken. Not good for this pasty Englishman.  I grabbed a beer and sat in the blazing sun.  Even worse, the Usti Ultras and their drum were to my immediate right. In terms of their number, imagine how many people it takes to block a 15 step aisle.  So, about 15 then. They'd pitched up here so they didn't have to sit down,  The sun soon sapped their enthusiasm.

Essential kit: beer and a drum
The shaded stand opposite looked of considerable size.  I'm amazed this place only has a capacity of 3,000 or so.  Maybe the stand is closed for safety reasons?  With a running track, there's also plenty of space for the stadium to be extended, even with temporary seating.

The Main Stand (closed)
Goals after 8 and 18 put the visitors two up and at half time I surveyed the souvenir stall.  3 scarves and a sun hat.  'I'm having that!' I thought.  I tried it on. No I'm not.  It was several sizes too small.  So I queued for a beer and I was pleased this took ages, since it was in the shade.

The souvenir tent
Second half, I did what many others did, foregoing the stand to take a perch leaning on a barrier behind the goal.  There were 5 or 6 rows of seats below, but what with that running track you're not gonna see much.

***latent sexism alert***
And if I wasn't pondering the football, I was wondering why the proportion of stunning women to average (male) fan was so high here.  What's the draw with Czech 2nd division football?  One, in high heels and short black dress wouldn't have looked out of place in Stringfellows. British female football fans - FIX UP!  (Only kidding, I know we men make no effort.)

Walsall away on a Tuesday night
All in all, despite being allergic to the sun and heat, I thoroughly enjoyed it.  But I got a panic on at the station.  I got a tram and at the station went to collect my stuff from the locker.  BEWARE, the lockers have a unique system.  Suffice to say I couldn't open it, despite having the code. Luckily, staff were still on hand and the nice lady found a nice man who got it open.  They even waived the CZK 30 charge for such a service, cos the instructions were only written in Czech and German. Sometimes it pays to be the subject of Her Majesty.

Damage:
CHK 50 ent
CHK 35 beer

(about 3 quid)

You are here.
There's the shade.  About 3 rows of it.


Back of main stand.
Stadium plan.  Only B, E and F open today.
poster on fence (beyond was a training pitch, then the stadium)
Sektor B, side view
Behind the goal.
Yes, it IS sunny!
A goalkeeper labour-saving device.  Cos they do too much as it is.
Znojmo team coach.  And bystander.













Friday, 8 August 2014

Slovan Liberec 2-3 Astra Giurgiu, Thursday 7th August 2014

Slovan Liberec 2-3 Astra Giurgiu, Romania (Europa League 3rd qualifying round, 2nd leg), att: 2,500

Liberec Town Hall (I think)
I'd travelled on an overnight train for this, a Europa League 3rd qualifying round 2nd leg affair with the home side 3 goals to the deficit from the 1st leg.  An impossible task, and so it proved.

I quite liked Liberec (the place).  Plenty of pubs and bars, cheap beer...and a lovely stroll to the stadium.  Get yourself a map, orientate yourself, find the river and follow it till you get to the Stadion u Nisy.  Should take you about 20 minutes.

The stadium approach (river on left)
Although I'd been in Liberec for the whole day, I still had no idea of the currency conversion rate so when faced with a choice of tickets costing 100 CZK or 150, I plumped for the former...to be offered the latter.  Turned out I was in a stand which overhung the river behind.  I even took up my exact seat  - there were plenty to choose from - if only cos I was in the back row.  Excellent.  It wasn't the tallest of stands though, sixteen rows to be precise.  (I was in row 16, I never actually counted them.  What do you think I am, sad?)

I think it's the bottom one which concerns me most...

On the far side was one of your stranger stands in football.  Built into a sandy bank it narrowed at either side towards the back.  Was it to be extended?  Or were the sandy corners to be left as is?  It was like, but not quite, Braga.  Certainly less grand.  The other three sides wrapped around the pitch as one C-shaped stand.

If I had a better camera, I'd have got the corners too...
Pre-match (and during, and at half time) we had a cheerleading troupe who looked and performed better than any I'd previously seen, including a couple managing the splits while a couple of others were lifted in the air. Mind, they work 'em hard at LIberec, as during the match they were on the balcony in the 'posh' stand performing, mainly shaking their pom-poms.

If I had a better camera...
At half time we also had an amazing performance of keepy-ups by a group of 'freestyle footballers'.  I think they were showcasing some of their skills for a show they were part of, which I'd seen on the (local?) TV news.

Football juggler cutely attired in Slovan strip
The match?

0-1 Liberec are caught on the counter and with Astra 2 on 1, the ball is laid to the right for the forward to bang home into the opposite corner.  Slovan now need five or are out.  They're out.

1-1 44 mins, a deadball is lifted over everyone towards the big lad sneaking in for an easy header. My tip for the top: always keep an eye on the big lad on set pieces.  Can Slovan do the impossible?

2-1 First half injury time, a ball runs loose on the edge of the box and a midfielder hammers it low to the keeper's left.  The ref blows for half time, a remarkable turnaround at the end of the first half.

More half time entertainment
So, from no hope to a positive, buzzing, crowd.  If Slovan can score 2 in 2 minutes, what chance 3 in the next 45?  I retired to the refreshment kiosk for beer and the kind of strange red sausage, Frankfurter-like in texture, which oozed juice once I'd pierced it.  With a couple of slices of brown bread and mustard, it was quite the meal.

Second half, I sat further down the stand so I could have an unimpeded view of that stand opposite (the roof being quite low).  Our stand had become quite busy and if the attendance was given as 2,500, I'd say over 2000 were on this side.  The main 'ultras' were in the corner to my left.  They had a most excellent banner covering the whole corner before KO, which gave the impression there were several hundred underneath.  Only upon the banner being furled was the truth forthcoming; half a dozen teenagers.  Bless 'em!

The ultras in the far corner
Another 'ultra' group stood on their lonesome amongst the seats opposite, to my right, all twenty of them. It was a bizarre sight, them standing miles from anyone else chanting to themselves.  Their 'Chaotix' name couldn't have been more apt.

Chaotix: Do what it says on the tin
But where were the away fans?  Emigrating to England probably (N. Farage, UKIP).  I'd seen some earlier, having a drink off the main square. Come to think, with their 'Astra' training tops, they were possibly the players, coaches and hangers-on of the team.  No, at 7:05pm they arrived en masse (about 20).  Since the match kicked off at 6, it's a little careless to arrive in the 2nd half, given you've travelled all the way from Romania to see the game.  Even I would check the KO time if it was MY team!  With two drums, the ratio of drum to fan was a little high as well.  But they livened proceedings.

2nd half...the away fans arrive!
So, for  small crowd, the atmosphere was quite good.  Three pockets of constant noise with the main cohort joining in occasionally or clapping rhythmically at every home free kick or corner.

Astra shored up their defence though and frustrated Slovan. Or was it the other way around?  An Astra player went nuts at a Slovan for the cardinal sin of kicking the ball out for an ASTRA throw (after an injury) rather than hoofing it to the keeper.  Was he serious, or was it gamesmanship?  He looked serious enough to me...

One can never be too comfrotable
As Slovan's participation in petered out, the final nails were driven into their European coffin.  On 84 minutes, a couple of quick passes in the box left Astra clean through and the player dinked it over the keeper.  Then, in the last minute, a similar move brought Astra clean through again and with the keeper going down far too early, the striker simply lifted it over him.  2-3 (2-6 on aggregate). Goodnight Slovan.

Club offices an restaurant
Afterwards, there was time to wander around the stadium. Behind the home end was the club shop, a restaurant and several open-air bars ready to show Viktoria Plzen.  However, I headed back to the centre to catch most of the Viktoria game in another bar.  Coincidentally, they too were taken apart at home by a Romanian side.  A new low fro Czech football?  After the game, a player was interviewed by a female Czech reporter, Ms 'Cunelova'.  I kid you not.  I must write to the James Bond franchise and suggest this one.

The Damage: (all CZK)
150 ent
40 sausage
25 beer (Gambrinus)
50 badge
= 265 (about 8 quid.  Crazy.)

The tunes:
Plumb (Field Music)
Post (Bjork)
Waltz for Koop (Koop)
Trans-Europe Express (Kraftwerk)

Bars outside home end
The cameraman
The concourse 'neath the 'Riverside Stand'
The view from the back row
The left bank...
the right bank...
ticket booths at the home end











Thursday, 7 August 2014

Mainz 05 II 3-4 MSV Duisburg, Wednesday 6th August 2014

Mainz 05 II 3-4 MSV Duisburg, 3.liga, att. 2,230


Outside Mainz Hbf

Since they'd gained promotion to 3.liga, I'd been even more determined to go and see Mainz's U23 team, if only cos they played at Mainz's 1st team's old ground, Stadion am Bruchweg.  But it promised to be one of those strange atmospheres which German football brings on itself by letting under 23/reserve sides enter the footballing pyramid, namely limited passion and numbers on one side against the relative might (for 3.liga) of MSV Duisburg, perennial mainstays of Bundesliga 1 and 2, relegated for financial reasons.

Not sure they need this anymore...

With a ten minute walk from the train station, I made it in good time - about five minutes before kick off.  I'd been in my Mainz 'local' (the tapas bar opposite the station) enjoying  couple of Schofferhofer Weizen.

Before I entered the Bruchweg, I could hear fans chanting - away fans.  I bought my ticket, a very reasonable €9, and took my sausage and beer to the stand. I was pleased to see the steward insist on seeing my ticket (!), given you needed one to actually get through the turnstile and the only sektors open in the home end were P and Q...of which you could happily walk through, say, P's entrance then go stand in sektor Q.

Sitting on the terrace, having a beer...

Naturally, there weren't many home fans (though they;d had a crowd of 3,000 in their opener). Duisburg brought tremendous support for a Wednesday night, easily 2/3 of the attendance.  Even their seats were relatively full, presumably cos their terrace space had sold out.  Of course, there was probably another 15,000 terrace spaces - if they'd opened more than one small end of a side stand.

The teams come out

MSV looked slick, too.  With one point from two games I thought they must be bedding in.  Mainz meantime looked like what they were; young, inexperienced and too eager to go forward, leaving giant holes behind. MSV were two up inside 5 minutes.  The first came from the striker being played through wide right before hitting it across the keeper high into the net.  The second...I don't remember.  Problies a blinder.

Packed terrace over there...room for a few little uns over here

More and more I became aware of the time.  Through every fault of my own, I'd have to miss a considerable amount of the second half.  I had to catch a train to Koln to make an overnight train to Decin in the Czech Republic. Still, I was unlikely to miss much, Mainz hadn't a hope.

As I left, I'm sure I heard the cheers of a 3rd goal for MSV (turns out I had).  On checking the score later, I was surprised to find the final score 3-4.  Had I missed a cracker?  Dunno. 0-3,1-3, 1-4, 2-4, 3-4.  Oh well - I made my trains.

The away fans and their chaperones
The Damage:
€9 ent
€??? sausage and beer.  Can't remember.

The tunes:
Mezzanine (Massive Attack)
Radiolina (Manu Chau)
La Revancha Del Tango (Gotan Project)

Main Stand
Pre-match (non) action
Scoreboard corner
Those away fans again
Time to leave.  Shouldn't be any more goals...
To tie your dog onto?
Away fans salute a goal
Gotta stop folk watching Mainz reserves for free...


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